On a unit only a few years old, the first question is not what a new one costs. It is who is already standing behind this one, and there are usually two candidates.
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A hot water system in a house this new has not worn out. Sydney runs soft water so scale is rarely a factor anywhere, and a few years is nowhere near long enough to consume a sacrificial anode. If it has failed, wear is essentially never the reason.
Which means something else is. And a near-new system usually has two separate things standing behind it, most owners knowing about neither.
The manufacturer warrants the product, with periods varying by brand and by component. Separately, the installation is building work, which in NSW carries statutory warranties under the Home Building Act 1989.
So before anyone quotes a replacement, it is worth knowing the make, model, date and which category the fault falls into. We record all four as part of any visit, because on this housing that information is usually worth more than the repair.


A unit a few years old that has failed is very often somebody else's problem, and the check costs a fraction of the tank.
Sydney's soft water means scale is rarely a factor, and a few years is not long enough to consume a sacrificial anode.
So a near-new failure is a product fault or an installation fault, and both of those point away from your wallet.
Periods vary by brand and by component, with tanks and parts frequently covered for different lengths of time.
The compliance plate on the unit gives you make, model and usually a date, which is where that check starts.
Fitting a hot water system is building work, and building work in NSW carries statutory warranties under the Home Building Act 1989.
Broadly six years for a major defect and two for others. NSW Fair Trading can advise on your circumstances, free.
A relief drain run wrongly, a tempering valve set incorrectly, a unit placed where it cannot be serviced, connections not properly made.
None are product faults. All are building work. Which category yours is decides who you should be talking to.
The sacrificial anode corrodes so the tank does not, and replacing it on schedule genuinely adds years to a system.
Nobody does it, which is why tanks fail at twelve rather than twenty. On a new unit it is the cheapest decision available.
Type and size decide most changeovers. On a house this new there is a prior question that matters more: whether you should be buying anything at all. The table is for whoever is weighing a genuine upgrade rather than a forced replacement.
| System | How it heats | Typical life | On a house this new |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric storage | An element heats a tank, often overnight on a controlled load tariff | 8 to 12 years | Nowhere near end of life. A failure is a fault worth chasing |
| Gas storage | A burner under a tank keeps a stored volume hot | 8 to 12 years | Same. Check the compliance plate and the handover paperwork |
| Continuous flow | Gas heats water on demand, nothing is stored | 15 to 20 years | Very early in its life. Faults here are usually installation |
| Heat pump | Moves heat from the air into the tank rather than making it | 10 to 15 years | Common in new estates. Check both product and install warranty |
| Solar with boost | Roof collectors, with an element or burner covering the gap | 15 to 20 years | Roof-mounted work is building work too, so both apply |
A starting point rather than a rule. Storage size is about how much you can draw before it runs out, so what counts is how many people want hot water inside the same hour.
| People in the house | Electric storage | Gas storage | Continuous flow |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 to 2 | 125 to 160 L | 90 to 135 L | 16 L/min |
| 3 to 4 | 250 to 315 L | 135 to 170 L | 20 L/min |
| 5 or more | 315 to 400 L | 170 L or twin | 26 L/min |
| Two bathrooms at once | Size up a step | Size up a step | 26 L/min, no wait |
Agreed before we start. These are indicative 2026 ranges. On a near-new unit the diagnostic line is very often the whole job, and that is the outcome we would prefer.
Make, model, date and which category the fault falls into. Often the entire job.
Element, thermostat, valve or anode, where it is genuinely ours to fix.
The spend worth avoiding if somebody else is already covering the unit.
Where a genuine upgrade is wanted rather than a forced replacement.
Product fault or installation fault, in a form you can send to whoever owes you a fix.
These are the makes we work on. On anything installed at build we record the make, model and date first, because that is what decides whether you should be paying at all.
We service and replace these systems as an independent licensed plumber. We are not an agent for, or endorsed by, any of these manufacturers.








Two questions on the phone that decide whether this is a repair conversation or a warranty one.

Off the compliance plate, before anything is touched, because that is the record that matters.

Stated plainly and in writing, because the category decides who you should be speaking to.

Fixed where it is genuinely ours to fix. Otherwise you leave with the evidence and the choice.
Tell us how old the house is. On a near-new unit we would rather spend twenty minutes finding out who owes you a fix than sell you a tank.
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Almost certainly not, and please do not let anyone sell you one before this is checked. A near-new system usually has two separate things standing behind it. The manufacturer's warranty covers the product, and periods vary by brand and by component, with tanks and parts often covered for different lengths of time. Separately, the installation itself is building work, which in NSW carries statutory warranties under the Home Building Act 1989. Between them, a three-year-old unit failing is very often somebody else's problem.
Two things to look for. The unit itself has a compliance plate with the make, model and usually a date, and that plus the brand's warranty terms tells you where the product stands. And your handover documents from the builder should include the paperwork for what was installed. If you never received any, that is worth chasing separately, because plenty of people never do. We note the make, model and date for you as part of any visit.
That is the more common one, in our experience, on a house this age. An undersized or incorrectly run relief drain, a tempering valve set wrong, a unit fitted somewhere it cannot be serviced, connections not properly made. None of those are product faults and all of them are building work. We will tell you which category yours falls into, in writing, because the category decides who you talk to.
We can, and sometimes that is the right call when somebody has no hot water and a family to get through the week. What we would ask is that we photograph and record the fault first, because once it is repaired the evidence has gone. Then it is genuinely your choice: pay us and move on, or take the record to whoever is responsible. Both are reasonable.
Not at this age. Sydney runs soft water so scale is rarely a factor anywhere, and a unit a few years old has not had time to lose its sacrificial anode either. If a near-new system has failed, wear is essentially never the explanation, which is exactly why the warranty question comes first here and not on any of our other pages.
Yes, and it is worth starting early rather than at the ten-year mark. The sacrificial anode is a rod designed to corrode instead of the tank, and replacing it on schedule genuinely adds years. Nobody does it, which is why so many tanks fail at twelve years instead of twenty. Starting that habit on a new unit is the cheapest hot water decision available.
Diagnosing a fault and identifying the make, model, age and warranty position is $180 to $350, and on a near-new unit that is frequently the whole job. A repair to an element, thermostat, valve or anode is $250 to $650. Replacement is $1,400 to $2,800 for electric storage, which is exactly the spend worth avoiding if somebody else is already covering it.
Let us know how old the house is and whether you still have the handover paperwork. Plenty of people never received any, and that is worth knowing too.
Make, model and date recorded, product or installation fault stated in writing, and the evidence yours to keep.
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